Yakitori Takedown At Sui Ren
Joining Zenkichi and Bozu, you can add Sui Ren to the pantheon on neighborhood izakaya hotspots. The menu, put together by owner Morgan Chang, formerly of Kai and chef Jun Hiroshima, from Bond St. Sushi focuses mostly on yakitori (the grilled skewers) and kushi katsu (fried skewers) though the concoctions—light on the tongue, hearts, and offal in general—aren’t likely to be found on a traditional Osaka menu. Of the cold skewers—perfect for summer—the bachi maguro to udama (marinated big eye tuna, soft yolk quail egg, and Korean seaweed; $8) and the tomobara (24-hour slow poached shortrib and baby turnip; $7) have already proven themselves popular, as have the nasu dengaku (Japanese eggplant with mascarpone sweet miso; $7) and the yaki gaki (grilled Malpeque oyster with spiced beurre blanc; $8). With dishes ranging from $3 to $12, Sui Ren can skew either towards cheap snack joint or--thanks a nicely-lit room and rather romantic wooded exterior, a la Bozu--a splurge on date night. If you go for the latter, be sure to order the panko-fried mackerel or grilled Japanese smelt. Nothing says “I love you” more eloquently than supporting sustainable fisheries.
Sui Ren
302 Metropolitan Avenue (Roebling)
718-218-7878
Sun-Thur 5pm-1am
Fri-Sat 5pm-2am
www.suirennyc.com
