Gwynnett St. Gets A Rave in The Times

The latest Graham Ave. joint, Gwynnett St (which features a chef who formerly worked at WD-50) just got an adoring review:

Mr. Hilbert’s style of cuisine is not yet common in this pocket of Williamsburg. In fact, cooking this sophisticated would be a find anywhere in New York.

And while it is a restaurant in Brooklyn, Gwynnett St. is not really a Brooklyn restaurant. There are no butchers’ tools hanging from reclaimed barn doors. Under the eye of Carl McCoy, the proprietor, the dining room staff is calmly professional, utterly free of pretense and attitude. Nobody is the least bit likely to pull up a chair and offer to show you pictures of the sauerkraut the chef is currently fermenting inside a pair of Red Wing boots.

With Sel de Mer and Mesa Coyoacan just blocks away, Graham Ave is becoming an essential destination for fine cuisine. Even if we miss Motorino.

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