Fanny

Fanny

425 Graham Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11211
view map
718.389.2060

Cuisine: American Nouveau
Our Rating: ★ ★ ★
Cards: Cash Only
Price: $$
Hours: Mon-Thurs 12pm-1opm; Fri 12pm-11pm; Sat 11am-11pm; Sun 11am-10pm
Booze: Beer & Wine
Subway: L to Graham Ave.
Menu: Click Here
Delivery: No
Time Out New York says:

Walk down Graham Avenue between Frost and Withers Streets and you’ll see a predominately residential Italian neighborhood. Located far from the Bedford Avenue crowds, this East Williamsburg spot—in one of the borough’s quiet, not-so-hip areas—is home to this terrific new pint-sized French bistro. The space is filled with antique-looking exposed-filament bulbs (replicas of the first model created by Con Edison); wood, slate and concrete walls; and cherry-maple wood tables. The owners, both French expats, have stocked the menu with bistro classics: An appetizer of steamed mussels is served in a terra-cotta crock with an addictive buttery and garlicky white-wine-and-shallot sauce (best sopped up with pieces of chewy baguette). Among the entrées, the roasted chicken with mushrooms fricassee and spinach (pictured) was most notable for its delightfully tender and juicy meat and for the way the chef—a French-trained Japanese man named Hiro Kiriyama—cooked the skin to a perfect crisp (the secret: the bird is marinated in lime juice before cooking). The terra-cotta crock pops up again in the monkfish Provençal, which is served, like the mussels, in a hearty, savory and warming stew—this time filled with large pieces of flaky fish, potatoes, onions, tomatoes, garlic and parsley, and topped with buttered crostini. Kiriyama prepares the desserts, too, and his gooey, raisin-and-pine-nut-studded apple strudel with fig ice cream arrived warm and tasted freshly baked. The place does not have its liquor license yet, but there is a liquor store just up the street. If they don’t stock good French wines, they’d be wise to do so soon.

Citysearch says:

Stone tiles, brick walls and clear pendant bulbs with glowing filaments make the front room of this neighborhood spot both crisp and warm. The back room is darker, setting the scene for dates as well as lingering group meals. Young, refined diners either fill the place or leave it half-empty depending on the night. The kitchen makes a few strong showings. Roasted chicken has a crackling, flavorful skin and savory meat, though it could be a touch moister. Smoky slices of duck are nicely balanced by avocado over greens, and the salad nicoise is done to the hilt with fat capers, lemony olives and, following tradition, high-end canned tuna. Among the less successful dishes, the homemade pate is overly chilled and chunky, and both the calamari and grilled pork chop arrive overcooked. Light and fragrant, the lavender blanc manger outshines the other desserts.

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