355 Metropolitan Ave
Brooklyn, NY 11211
Cuisine: American, BBQ, Steak
Our Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★
Cards: All Major
Price: $$ — $10-$70 (for a rib eye for two)
Hours: Sun-Thu, 5pm-11pm; Fri-Sat 5pm-midnight
Booze: Beer and Wine Only
Subway: L to Lorimer St.
Menu: Click Here
As impressive as St. Anselm is on the food front, it’s even more so on the wine. If Spuyten Duyvil demonstrates Joe Carroll’s exceptional beer geekery and Fette Sau his fluency with American whiskeys, then St. Anselm proves that he’s also a major oenophile with ecstatically offbeat taste and the guts to veer away from big-ticket Bordeaux and Napa Cab convention. His list itself is worthy of multiple trips, if only to sample rare by-the-glass selections of “yellow” wines from the Jura (vinified like fino sherry), “orange” wine from Friuli-Venezia (tinted by exposure to white-grape skins), and draft picks from two of the region’s most experimental producers (Red Hook Winery and Channing Daughters). Visionary winemakers both present and past populate the list, from Abe Schoener to Dr. Konstantin Frank, but what really sets it apart is the array of half-bottles, nearly five dozen opportunities to match each course, be it fish or fowl or succulent red meat, to its perfect pairing. St. Anselm’s one weakness is its desserts, which seem more hastily assembled than ingeniously conceived (though there’s something very appealing about the Reese’s effect of spreading peanut-hazelnut butter on chunks of dark chocolate). But you don’t go to a steakhouse for dessert, do you? Well, not yet, at least. Give Carroll and crew some tim
NY Times says:
TAGS: American (New), Bars, BBQ, Bedford, Fairly Cheap, Good for Groups, Lorimer, Notable Beer, Recommended, Restaurants, Steakhouse, Wine Bar, ★★★★ Great
The new iteration is charming, with a pulsing bass line of ambition beneath its simple steakhouse melody. Yvon de Tassigny, the restaurant’s chef, has matched great live-fire technique to excellent groceries, and reveals himself to be a master of off-cut lamb and beef. And his iceberg salad, served below warm bacon vinaigrette that melts a scattering of blue cheese across the top and softens the exterior of the crisp lettuce, is among the great things to eat on the north side of Williamsburg.