Williamsburg Brooklyn Restaurant Guide: * Lamb & Jaffy

image c/o NY Mag

American Nouveau
1073 Manhattan Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11222
between Eagle and DuPont Sts.
PHONE: 718-389-3638
CARDS: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
AVERAGE ENTREE: $15
BOOZE: BYOB
DIRECTIONS: G to Greenpoint Ave
MAP: Click Here
HOURS: Tue-Thu, 5pm-10pm; Fri-Sat, 5pm-11pm; Sun, 10am-10pm; Mon, closed
MENU: Click Here

From NYMag:
Springing up seemingly overnight amid Manhattan Ave.'s well-worn bodegas and vinyl-clad apartments, Lamb & Jaffy introduces welcome panache into Greenpoint’s scruffy northern frontier. Its inviting French-door façade, conspiratorially underlit interior, dark-wood furnishings, and Spartan off-white walls create a warm, decidedly grown-up atmosphere missing fro--or avoided by--the edgier, hipster-courting eateries over on Franklin Ave. The effect might seem routine in a more upscale setting, but chef Michael De Prima's dishes would stand out anywhere: the roasted beet, hearts of palm, and orange mint starter is a whimsical clash of opposites--tangy and sweet, crisp and silky--that's all the more intriguing for bringing two typically bland ingredients to vibrant life. The delectable juxtapositions carry over to the entrees: the rich, buttery centers of the seared sea scallops play decadently off the near-crunchy surface, while the beefy simplicity of the cast-iron flank steak is given depth by a hearty, piquant potato gratin side. The only letdown is a much-touted molten chocolate cake, which recalls hot brownie batter plopped next to a wad of unremarkable vanilla ice cream. Given the casually elegant milieu, the cheese plate makes for a more fitting finish. -- Mark Holcomb Recommended Dishes: Seared sea scallops, $18; roasted beet, hearts of palm, and orange mint, $7

From NYTimes:
CATERERS cook in obscure commercial spaces, down basement stairs, behind unmarked windows, often in offbeat neighborhoods, where rents are still affordable. Following a good food smell down a side street and into one of their clandestine kitchens, hoping to score something to eat, can lead to disappointment, unless you are looking for 200 chicken wings.
But sometimes you get lucky.

In February, Michael De Prima and Tara Steilen opened a simple, wood-trimmed dining room, which they named Lamb & Jaffy, in front of their catering kitchen in Greenpoint, Brooklyn. On that sleepy stretch of Manhattan Avenue where most drivers U-turn back to the Polish delis and coffee shops, it is remote enough to be a risky business. But within a week it was filled with locals, lugging bottles of wine from the liquor shop next door.

As you might expect from a caterer, the menu includes international, if predictable, crowd-pleasers that you have encountered at weddings, like baked Brie, stuffed mushrooms and steak in red wine. But their appeal is tacitly retro: molten Brie spills from thick pastry into brightly seasoned greens ($8), and flank steak is pan-charred with creamy potato gratin ($16).

Mr. De Prima was a restaurant cook before he was a caterer - the sous-chef at Oceana and before that a saucier at Club Gaustavino, where he met Ms. Steilen - and it shows in his careful touches. There is an unexpected frothy finesse to sweet carrot-thyme bisque (cup, $3; bowl, $5) and a coriander-crusted fillet of salmon with a frizzle of its skin on the side ($16). Mint and fresh parsley wed hearts of palm to roasted beets.

Even the chicken ($18) tasted better than it sounded. The wing is transformed into a plump mini-drumstick, the breast is pan-crisped, and artichokes, asparagus and sun-dried tomatoes add texture to a fantastic balsamic pan gravy.

Mr. De Prima's inspirations are sundry: hummus one minute, pancetta-white bean soup the next. But there are no culinary cartwheels, no foams or fusions, just robust flavors and solid recipes.

"I like to cook food that I would serve my mother," Mr. De Prima said.

Bacon-wrapped dates, called devils on horseback ($5), are a satisfying example of his straightforward fare. Served in the diminutive cast-iron pans they are crisped in, they taste like cured pork candy with a buried bang of salty Roquefort. We could have downed dozens.

An easygoing, almost playful sensibility separates Lamb & Jaffy from the many restaurants in its affordable price range that are sprouting in newly gentrified neighborhoods. It shows in the food, the unfalteringly friendly service, even the curious name. Lamb and Jaffy, Ms. Steilen said with a laugh, were what Mr. De Prima and she, respectively, called their first stuffed animals.

That in mind, the setting seems too casual for the multicourse, $40 to $50 tasting menus. We were consistently pleased with specials, though, like peppery sautéed chicken livers, with sticky wings and caramelized onions, and cold poached perch atop refreshing cucumber-onion slaw (both $7). Both should make it on the permanent menu.

There were flawed dishes, like thin, pallid pork medallions with apples, onions and potatoes. Seared scallops were sapless, upstaged by bright green baby string beans.

At Sunday brunch poached eggs were runny, and quiche was overcooked. But plenty of hits redeemed the meal, like béchamel-drenched crepes ($7), stuffed with chicken and tarragon; silly big stacks of half-inch thick pancakes ($7); and kielbasa and pepper omelets (more scrambled than stuffed, $8), a nod to the neighborhood. Busy with stylishly disheveled 20-somethings and multigenerational families, our server appeased us with blueberry streusel muffins and honey butter.

Like the baked Brie, the dessert menu is proof that dishes cannot be judged by name alone. Tarte Tatin arrives in a steroidal pile of chunky baked apples, pastry and crème anglaise. The cheesecake, Ms. Steilen's mother's recipe, is tall and fluffy and appealingly tart (both $6).

Impressive, considering they are cooking on catering equipment. At least now you can order a single portion.

Comments

I liked this restaurant but my new favorite has to be Rye in Williamsburg!
It just opened and I have already been twice! Its on 247 South First Street
between Roebling and Havemeyer. The chef, Cal Elliott, takes a new twist on
contemporary American styles such as the House Smoked Sturgeon with Boulangere potatoes, pancetta, frisee & horseradish, Sooo good, Followed by one
of their fab cocktails! Love it!!

Posted by: Katie | June 3, 2009 10:34 PM

The endive salad was good, but everything else was mediocre. Way way way way mediocre. Greenpoint needs great restaurants, not boring ones. Also, the waiter seemed to forget we were there and had a serious tude. Overall, "meh."

Posted by: Rahmotz | January 4, 2009 04:12 AM

Visited L&J on several occasions - always good food reasonably priced.
Liquor store next door has plenty of good wines to complement the meal.
Service friendly.
Recommended it to several of my friends.
Hope L&J will be there forever...

Posted by: Jack Bakowski | August 31, 2008 08:01 PM

I've been here once and it was very hit and miss. The pancakes were good, but they didn't bring any syrup (the wait staff was continually m.i.a.). The eggs weren't cooked all the way. The coffee was served in really cute cups, with an extra carafe, but it all got cold fast, and was never refilled. The bacon was tasty, but looked like it was wadded up before being thrown on the grill, some parts were crispy, some parts nearly raw.
I'd only go back if every other place in the neighborhood was full. Oh, and the food took for-ev-er.
Go get arapas two blocks south instead.

Posted by: Sara | May 1, 2008 01:36 AM

This place is awesome. Twice I took out-of-towners, including my entire family, and got rave reviews from everyone, including my difficult-to-please Grandmother. Everything I've had has been at the very least above average. Also great friendly atmosphere. I was surprised to find any bad comments posted. Go there immediately.

Posted by: Elizabeth | April 20, 2008 02:38 PM

all of the food came out incorrectly, poor service and just not a good meal or atmosphere.

Posted by: disappointed | March 5, 2008 12:01 AM

i live a block away and was thrilled when l&j opened. unfortunately, the food is completely hit or miss... and seems to have gone downhill lately.

i've had the worst burger ever (charred), completely raw pancakes, etc. Often the food is cold, which makes no sense as the place is rarely full. I love the garden and most of the decor, but those pop cartoon paintings inside are awful and totally ruin the aesthetic.

Cons: food is way too inconsistent, hate the paintings.

Pros: never have to wait for a table, best pancakes ever (when they're cooked), and it's a block away.

Posted by: ek | November 20, 2007 08:10 PM

HELLO I CANNOT BELIEVE IT. I AM LOOKING FORWARD TO VISITING.I USED TO LIVE UPSTAIRS UNTIL 1954.I MET MY HUSBAND IN FRONT OF YOUR RESTAURANT 52 YEARS AGO. IT USED TO BE A SMALL GROCERY STORE.I HAVE BEEN LONGING TO VISIT THE OLD NEIGHBORHOOD. NOW I REALLY HAVE A REASON TO COME BACK. MY FIRST KISS WAS IN THE ENTRANCE TO THE UPSTAIRS APARTMENTS.,AND I REMEMBER HOURS OF PLAYING IN THE BACK YARD,WHERE YOU EXTENDED THE DINNING ROOM. I LIVE IN CT. NOW . IT HAS BEEN A LONG TIME AND I AM LOOKING FORWARD TO VISITING AND OLD MEMORIES. GOOD LUCK WITH YOOUR BUSINESS.

Posted by: MARCELLA URBANSKI | October 18, 2007 06:17 AM

I really like this place. The waitstaff are kind, timely and helpful, the room is gorgeous, the garden is adorable and they have the best bathroom in Brooklyn.

But you want to read about the food. What can I say? It's fantastic. We live around the corner and I try and get there at least once a month, twice foe brunch.

I am especially enamored with the blueberry muffins with honey butter, the frsh herb studded omelettes and the amazing potatoes with sauteed onions and peppers just melting into them. The turkey club is also delectable.

For dinner we usually get whatever fresh fish they are offering for a special, but the spinach and gorgonzola salad with bacon and balsamic dressing, the seared sea scallops and the hamburger are also fantastically good.

We have had both the molten choclate cake and the cheese plate for dessert and have never been dissapointed.

I just hope that all the sheep bleating outside of The Queen's Hideaway don't catch onto the magic that is Lamb and Jaffy, I really don't want to have to wait 2 hours to get soem of thier amazing food!

Posted by: greenpointgourmet | October 23, 2006 12:06 AM

YEAH!!! went there last night with my boyfriend (who owns a restaurant himself so is a tough critic) We had a really nice meal. Back yard is adorable and romantic. Service was good. BYOB is great a a nice meal for 2 (I had the tilapia he had the stuffed pepper both delicious-with 2 espressos) and it was under 40 bucks- what a deal in NYC.
I only felt badly bc it wasnt that crowded on a nice summer night.. support this place - they deserve it. Compliments and well done to L & J owners.

Posted by: Greenpointer | July 15, 2006 03:27 PM

PS. Don't be discouraged if you don't see anyone in the dining room in the summer. Check out the backyard garden seating. Lovely atmosphere.

Posted by: ET | June 17, 2006 03:52 AM

Lamb & Jaffy is great! We have been at least 10 times and more if you count take out, and have never been disappointed. Every entree has been terrific and how can you beat byob...go there, you will not be disappointed.

Posted by: ET | June 17, 2006 03:49 AM

i had one of the worst meals here ever but it was about a week after it opened so maybe it got better?

Posted by: weird | April 7, 2006 08:43 PM