* Marlow & Sons
photo from NY Magazine
81 Broadway, Brooklyn, NY 11211
(Berry & Wythe Sts.)
PHONE: 718.384.1441
HOURS: Mon-Fri, 5pm-midnight; Sat-Sun, noon-midnight
CARDS: American Express, MasterCard, Visa
PRICES: $14-$18
RESERVATIONS: Not accepted
BOOZE: Full Bar
MENU: Click Here
WE SAY: The best damn oysters in New York
MAP: Click Here
SUBWAY: L at Bedford Ave. ; J, M, Z at Marcy Ave. - close to the Williamsburg Bridge
From New York Magazine
"Cafe by day, raw bar and small-plates restaurant by night, this quirky Williamsburg canteen is the latest venture from the owners of Diner, the American bistro next door. And even though it is ideally situated to absorb Diner's overflow and ply them with retro cocktails and briny oysters, the dimly lit, wood-paneled space has been forging a cozy Mediterranean-accented identity of its own. Locals congregate at communal tables over good olives, delicate tortilla espanola, and daily specials like wild-leek-and-goat-0cheese tart or a sardine sandwich on pizza bianca. If you come across an ingredient you really love, up front is a quasi-organic gourmet general store, stocked by a retail savant."
From Shecky's
"With a sly wink amidst the gently flickering candlelight, your waiter presents oysters with Spanish wine and a subtle selection of freshly sliced gourmet meats and cheeses resting atop an array of soft bread. The intimate wooden room warms with light world music, and a mild breeze floats in through the tiny European-style organic market opening out onto the street. If you can't score tonight, it's time for some serious re-evaluating. Recently opened (March 2004) by the owners of the nearby Diner, this combo specialty store, wine bar, and secret shucking cellar was made with an eye for romance. On a misty night, the bridge hovers over like the ghost of a clipper ship. Oh, make your move already! This is an aphrodisiac with a business license. "
From CitySearch
The Scene: Just past the tidy shelves of groceries at this dual-identity establishment, the lighting dims and the mood downshifts into a refined, intimate hideaway. Built with dark woods and decorated with milk-glass lamps and other found materials by the owners of the legendary Diner next door, this largely undiscovered spot hums with a confident Williamsburg cred.The Draw: A simple menu complements the bar's romantic allure with flavors of fresh oysters, spicy chorizo and aptly dished-out olives, as well as cocktails such as the sweet, bright pomegranate martini and a caraway-accented bloody mary, which packs a nice kick of aquavit. Each of the 10 wines, among them a prosecco, a muscadet and an earthy, complex Montepulciano, may be ordered in half- or full-quartino size, making it easy to sample your way through the night.
From New York Times:
Stop for Drinks and Oysters, Stay for Supper
THERE'S a general store in the front of Marlow & Sons, a two-year-old spot near the base of the Williamsburg Bridge in Brooklyn.In the shop there are dairy products and vegetables, mainly from Greenmarket purveyors; top quality pastas; and a broad selection of artisanal jams, olive oils and American cheeses that the shop buys directly from their producers. (Many of the ingredients are used in the kitchens of Marlow & Sons and its parent restaurant, Diner, around the corner.)
Ceci-Cela croissants and housemade pastries are on sale in the morning; fried chicken, pizza and sandwiches take center stage later in the day. Williamsburgers who aren't stocking their larders from Marlow & Sons are missing out.
The same can be said for folks who regard the dining room at Marlow & Sons only as an oysters-and-muscadet stopover during the long waits that usually preface a weekend dinner at Diner. They have been missing out on a menu that has expanded, matured and improved since the restaurant opened.
Yes, the saloonlike dining room, done up in battered wood, mirrors and marble, is a near-perfect spot for pre-dinner cocktailing and oyster slurping.
But there are plenty of dishes that make Marlow & Sons more than just a pit stop. Consider the chicken liver mousse ($7.50), a generous dollop of unctuous goodness that disappears quickly when spread on semolina-sesame bread or a wedge of potato tortilla ($4), tortilla Español to those who know it from tapas bars. The tortilla is moist but not oily, sufficiently hefty but not at all dense, with the perfect ratio of potato to egg. I now consider both required eating at the restaurant, whether or not it's your final dining destination of the evening.
The remainder of the small dishes don't disappoint, including crostini with beans ($6) and the daily clam dish ($9), which featured a julienne of fresh ginger one night and an odd but successful mix of scrambled eggs and chopped chorizo on another.
And though the lamb shank braised in white wine ($15) left me wanting, it was the exception among the entrees. You won't mistake Marlow & Sons' hearty pulled pork sandwich ($12), dressed to good effect with a vinegary barbecue sauce, for Southern roadside fare, but it hits the spot with force.
Even better were a fish stew with a Provençal accent ($15), prepared with a light but assured touch, and the brick chicken ($14), half a chicken roasted under a brick, that was exceptionally moist and consistently well seasoned.
There is an expansive and well-groomed wine list to accompany the short menu, with a host of interesting bottles in the $20 to $30 range, as well as a selection of craft beers and classic cocktails.
One of the most commendable improvements the owners Mark Firth and Andrew Tarlow (the fictional Marlow is a mash-up of their names and both have young sons) have made is the addition of a pastry crew to their kitchen staff. The bakers supply the retail shop with pastries and Diner with desserts, once a weak link in its menu. At Marlow & Sons, their tart of caramel and rich chocolate ganache, finished with a scattering of gray salt, is as good a tart as there is to be had anywhere in New York City. If you don't have the appetite to tackle dessert but are wrapping up dinner on the late side, you won't miss out entirely: the restaurant regularly bags unsold baked goods at the end of the night for diners to take home with them gratis.
Well-considered hospitable gestures like those goody bags aren't uncommon at Marlow & Sons, Diner or the group's third Williamsburg restaurant, Bonita, an unsung but worthwhile Mexican joint. And the sendoff is just another way Mr. Firth and Mr. Tarlow have ensured their continued hegemony over the neighborhood's dining scene.
BEST DISHES Oysters; potato tortilla; crostini; chicken liver mousse; fontina bread soup; brick chicken; fish stew; chocolate tart.
Comments
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Posted by: Lola | April 8, 2009 06:46 PM
Way overpriced for what it is, which is decent food served in a sceney atmosphere. Inevitably long waits for tables, no matter when you go. I have friends who really love the place, but I just don't see the appeal.
Posted by: midge | January 5, 2009 07:32 PM
People who work there are assholes. Customers are the same. Enjoy!
Posted by: rusty | March 25, 2008 11:00 PM
The potato tortilla is great to share unless you have a pig for friends, the country pate is wrapped in some bacon, and this place is fabulous!
Posted by: maria | April 4, 2007 07:09 PM
been there and loved the food and decor. when called to make reservation for a big group, before i could even get out my sentence, i was hung up on, TWICE! by the man on the phone. i'm not someone who complains on message boards, and i've loved the food here. but it's gonna be a long time before i go back.
Posted by: ts | September 28, 2006 08:33 PM
i love love love this place. the staff is so welcoming and attentive and the food is simple yet indulgent. try the peach and basil salad. yummmmmm.
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Posted by: Alan | June 22, 2006 08:14 PM
Great wine especially the sparkling rose - perfect for a summer's evening. Everything we ate was delicious and prepared with care. It's simple food but done well - my favourite kind.
Posted by: zoe | June 8, 2006 09:21 PM
Food is top hole. Staff is wine savvy. Quiet and comforting on cold winter nights. Pork bellie is the only exception to this reviewer's recommendations. It was not braised off enough, leaving it with way too much fat, lean on flavor, and zero crisp skin. Bummer. Everything else was fantastic. Great stop in for oysters and Ketel One. Mind the budding shop in front, great foodstuffs.
Posted by: noodles | February 22, 2006 05:24 PM
Wonderful place for oysters and champagne, or any other nibbles. Social atmosphere and very cozy on a winter night - do not come in expecting a quick turnaround. Had the pork belly recently - very tasty. Can't go wrong with the cheese plate or crostini, either.
Posted by: eliza | February 16, 2006 09:15 PM
Do not overlook this place as the waiting room for Diner. Been there a bunch of times and the food is awesome! Same concept as Diner - small menu and everyday specials. Also have oysters, cheese and meat plates and interesting wine list. Service is attentive and I just can't say enough good things.
Posted by: ET | January 8, 2006 01:48 AM