Photo by Robert K. Chin, NY Mag
Eclectic Asian/Japanese Tapas
296 Grand Street, Brooklyn NY 11211
(between Havemeyer and Roebling Sts.)
PHONE: 718-384-7770
HOURS: Sun-Thu, 6pm-midnight; Fri-Sat, 6pm-1am
BOOZE: full bar
CARDS: MasterCard, Visa
AVERAGE ENTREE: $8-$20
MENU: Click Here
MAP: Click Here
SUBWAY: L Train to Bedford
CUISINE: Izakaya, Japanese
ADDRESS: 302 Metropolitan Ave., Brooklyn NY 11211
(between Driggs Ave & Roebling St)
PHONE: 718.218.7878
HOURS: Tues -Sun: 5pm-1am; Closed Mondays
CARDS: All major
MENU: Click Here
SUBWAY: L Train to Lorimer or Bedford
MAP: Click Here
WEBSITE: www.suirennyc.com
WE SAY: Joining Zenkichi and Bozu, you can add Sui Ren to the pantheon on neighborhood izakaya hotspots. The menu, put together by owner Morgan Chang, formerly of Kai and chef Jun Hiroshima, from Bond St. Sushi focuses mostly on yakitori (the grilled skewers) and kushi katsu (fried skewers) though the concoctions—light on the tongue, hearts, and offal in general—aren’t likely to be found on a traditional Osaka menu. Of the cold skewers—perfect for summer—the bachi maguro to udama (marinated big eye tuna, soft yolk quail egg, and Korean seaweed; $8) and the tomobara (24-hour slow poached shortrib and baby turnip; $7) have already proven themselves popular, as have the nasu dengaku (Japanese eggplant with mascarpone sweet miso; $7) and the yaki gaki (grilled Malpeque oyster with spiced beurre blanc; $8). With dishes ranging from $3 to $12, Sui Ren can skew either towards cheap snack joint or—thanks a nicely-lit room and rather romantic wooded exterior, a la Bozu—a splurge on date night. If you go for the latter, be sure to order the panko-fried mackerel or grilled Japanese smelt. Nothing says “I love you” more eloquently than supporting sustainable fisheries. --Nick Mosquera
image c/o noahkalina
77 N 6th Street, Brooklyn, NY 11211
(Cross Street: Between Berry Street and Wythe Street)
PHONE: (718) 388-8985
CARDS: All Major
HOURS: Wed-Sun 6pm-12am
SUBWAY: L to Bedford
MAP: Click Here
MENU: Click Here
WEBSITE: Click Here
WE SAY: In Williamsburg, vinyl-sided buildings are as ubiquitous as skinny, stretch jeans with white high tops, but the owners of Zenkichi gave their vinyl-sided building a facelift, converting it into something utterly unique. The plastic clapboards of the building’s edifice are masked in dark wood planks – the perfect exterior to the hidden Japanese tapas oasis within.
North Sixth is the Williamsburg strip where most restaurants conspicuously flaunt their crowds by packing them into large, noisy open spaces. With no sign to mark the entrance, Zenkichi is easy to miss, but inside is a welcome alternative to this trend. Walking in, we felt like we’d stumbled upon a cross between a Zen garden and a three-leveled carnival house-of-mirrors. The host led us up the stairs and through a disorienting maze to our own private cubby booth – complete with bamboo blinds and equipped with a buzzer to ring for our waitress. We felt like we entered a Japanese film noir where a smoke machine was the only missing element. Zenkichi is one of many izakaya spots springing up around the city. The Japanese equivalent of a tapas bars, izakayas are great places to try a variety of little dishes while sipping sake. We decided against the Omakase for Two -- ten tastes chosen by the chef for $88. Since we didn’t want dessert and were curious about a few items not on the tasting menu, we opted to make our own selections.
We started with two raw dishes, Tako Wasabi and Maguro Carpaccio. The briny taste of wasabi-cured raw octopus was a refreshing spin on the sushi we were craving. More a condiment than a dish to satisfy hunger pangs, the Tako was nice light start on a hot summer night. The freshness continued with a traditional Japanese tuna dish, Maguro Carpaccio. The tuna was lightly coated in a sweet sesame marinade and wrapped around chilled, thin slices of radish and chives.
Next we moved on to something more substantial with the Pork Kakuni. A complex caramel broth, at once sweet and salty, seeped from the pork belly. It was among the best we’ve eaten. Cooked for three days, the tender, slow-cooked pork can be lifted from the fatty belly with an easy tug of the chopsticks. Equally satisfying was Zenkichi’s generous portion of Saiko Miso Black Cod. The hint of miso absorbed in the firm fish was a salty reminder to take another sip of sake. Less successful dishes included the Japanese Mushroom Gratin and Umaki and an omelet wrapped freshwater eel. Despite what the menu’s claim that the Japanese Mushroom Gratin contained Enoki, Simeji & Oyster mushrooms, we only tasted straw mushrooms which were lost amid the creamy bechamel sauce. And though the omelet wrapping the freshwater eel in the Umaki was delicious, a larger piece of eel would have allowed the fish flavor to go head to head with the sweet egg.
Since the importance of drinking is almost equal to eating at an izakaya joint, we were disappointed to find that the sake menu had only a limited selection of inexpensive sake. The cheapest (and only) carafe was $45 and the average bottle of sake was in the $50 to $60 range. Opt for the summer sake tasting menu where you can sample three glasses for $18.
Left to our own devises, we ordered seven dishes -- more than enough food for two. The bill for two before drinks totaled $60. With friendly, attentive service and many dishes we didn’t get to try, we’ll be returning soon for more.
- Amy Brown
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